Florence's sights are easily walkable. Many of the artistic treasures you'll want to see are concentrated in the relatively small centro storico (historic center), stretching from Piazza del Duomo south to the Arno River. Fine examples of the work of native son Michelangelo are cloistered in streets north of Piazza del Duomo, off Via Cavour. Piazza Santa Maria Novella, west of Piazza del Duomo, is near the train station and pervaded by a certain squalor; nevertheless, the streets in and around the piazza are enchanting.
A walk through the working-class Oltrarno neighborhood, south of the Arno, takes in both the splendor of the Medici, with its mammoth Palazzo Pitti and Giardini Boboli, and the charm of this neighborhood lined with artisans' and antiques shops. The Santa Croce quarter, on the southeast fringe of the historic center, has been a center of leather working since the Middle Ages and the neighborhood is still packed with leather shops. The centerpiece of the neighborhood is the Santa Croce basilica, its vast piazza doubling as a soccer field.
Here's our highly selective list of the very best things to see and do in Florence.
Battistero. In front of the Duomo is the octagonal baptistery, one of the city's oldest (modern excavations suggest its foundations date from the 4th to 5th and the 8th to 9th centuries) and most beloved buildings, where since the 11th century Florentines have baptized their children. The interior dome mosaics are famous but cannot outshine the building's renowned gilded bronze east doors (facing the Duomo). The work of Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455), dubbed the "Gates of Paradise" by Michelangelo (1475-1564), these are the most splendid of the Baptistery's three pairs of doors. They are, however, a luminous copy of the originals, which are now on display in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. Piazza del Duomo, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/230-2885. COST: EUR2.60. Mon.-Sat. 12:30-6:30, Sun. 8:30-1:30.
Campanile. The Gothic bell tower designed by Giotto (1266-1337) is a soaring structure of multicolor marble originally decorated with reliefs that are now in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. A climb of 414 steps rewards you with a close-up of Brunelleschi's cupola on the Duomo next door and a sweeping view of the city. Piazza del Duomo, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/230-2885. COST: EUR5.20 Apr.-Oct., daily 9-7:30; Nov.-Mar., daily 9-6:50.
Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels). This extraordinary chapel, part of the church of San Lorenzo complex, contains the tombs of practically every member of the Medici family, and there were a lot of them, who guided Florence's destiny from the 15th century to 1737. Cosimo I (1519-74), a Medici whose acumen made him the richest man in Europe, is buried in the crypt beneath the Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of the Princes), and the tomb of the sculptor Donatello is next to that of his patron, Cosimo il Vecchio (1389-1464). Upstairs is a dazzling array of colored marble panels.
Michelangelo's Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy) tombs of Giuliano (1478-1534) and Lorenzo de' Medici (Il Magnifico) are adorned with the justly famed sculptures of Dawn and Dusk, Night and Day . Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, behind San Lorenzo church, San Lorenzo, Florence, PHONE: 055/294883 reservations. COST: EUR5.70. Daily 8:15-5.
Duomo. The Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, known as the Duomo, is dominated by a cupola representing a landmark in the history of architecture. The cathedral itself was begun by master sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296, and its construction took 140 years to complete. Gothic architecture predominates; the facade was added in the 1870s but is based on Tuscan Gothic models. Inside, the church is cool and austere, a fine example of the architecture of the period. Take a good look at the frescoes of equestrian figures on the left wall; the one on the right is by Paolo Uccello, the one on the left by Andrea del Castagno.
The dome frescoes by Giorgio Vasari take second place to the dome itself, Filippo Brunelleschi's (1377-1446) greatest architectural and technical achievement. It was also the inspiration behind such later domes as the one Michelangelo designed for St. Peter's in Rome and even the Capitol in Washington. You can visit early medieval and ancient Roman remains of previous constructions excavated under the cathedral. And you can climb to the cupola gallery, 463 exhausting steps up between the two layers of the double dome, for a fine view. Piazza del Duomo, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/230-2885. COST: EUR2.60, dome EUR5.20. Mon.-Wed. and Fri. 10-5; Sat. 8:30-5; Sun. 1-5; Thurs. and 1st Sat. of every month 10-3:20. Crypt: Mon.-Sat. 10-5. Dome: Mon.-Sat. 8:30-6:20 (1st Sat. of month 8:30-3:20).
Fiesole. A half-day excursion to the enchanting village of Fiesole, set in the hills 8 km (5 mi) above Florence, gives you a pleasant respite from museums and a wonderful view down over the city. From here, the view of the Duomo, with Brunelleschi's powerful cupola, will give you a new appreciation for what the Renaissance accomplished. Fiesole began life as an ancient Etruscan and later Roman village that held some power until it succumbed to the barbarian invasions. Eventually it gave up its independence in exchange for Florence's protection. The medieval cathedral, ancient Roman amphitheater, and lovely old villas behind garden walls are clustered on a series of hilltops.
Take Bus 7 from the Stazione Centrale, Piazza San Marco, or the Duomo. You can also take the 2-hour walk up; the best route is along Via Barbacane, near Piazza Edison (on Bus 7 route).
Galleria degli Uffizi. The Uffizi Palace was built to house the administrative offices of the Medici, onetime rulers of the city. Later, their fabulous art collection was arranged in the Uffizi Gallery on the top floor, which was opened to the public in the 17th century - making this the world's first modern public gallery. The emphasis of the collection is on Italian art of the Gothic and Renaissance periods - in fact, the Uffizi houses the most important collection of paintings in Italy. Make sure you see the works by Giotto, and look for Sandro Botticelli's (1445-1510) Birth of Venus and Primavera in Rooms X-XIV, Michelangelo's Holy Family in Room XXV, and the works by Raphael (1483-1520) next door in Room XXVI.
In addition to its art treasures, the gallery offers a magnificent close-up view of the Palazzo Vecchio tower from the little coffee bar at the end of the corridor. Notoriously long lines at the Uffizi's admission booths can be avoided by purchasing tickets in advance from Consorzio ITA. Piazzale degli Uffizi 6, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/23885. Advance tickets: Consorzio ITA, Piazza Pitti 1, 50121, PHONE: 055/294883. COST: EUR6.20. Apr.-Oct., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-10, Sun. 8:30-7; Nov.-Mar., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-6:50, Sun. 8:30-8.
Galleria dell'Accademia (Accademia Gallery). Michelangelo's David is a tour de force of artistic conception and technical ability, for he was using a piece of stone that had already been worked on by a lesser sculptor. Take time to see the forceful Slaves , also by Michelangelo; their rough-hewn, unfinished surfaces contrast dramatically with the highly polished, meticulously carved David . Michelangelo left the Slaves "unfinished," it is often claimed, to accentuate the figures' struggle to escape the bondage of stone. Actually, he simply abandoned them because his patron changed his mind about the tomb monument for which they were planned.
Try to be first in line at opening time, or go shortly before closing so you can get the full impact without having to fight your way through the crowds. Via Ricasoli 60, San Marco, Florence, PHONE: 055/238-8609. COST: EUR6.20. Apr.-Oct., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-10, Sun. 8:30-6; Nov.-Mar., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-6:50, Sun. 8:30-8.
Giardini Boboli. The main entrance to the formal Boboli Gardens, which spills down a landscaped hillside, is in the right wing of Palazzo Pitti. The garden was laid out in 1549 for Cosimo I's wife, Eleanora of Toledo, and was further developed by later Medici dukes. Enter through Palazzo Pitti, Piazza Pitti, Oltrarno, Florence, PHONE: 055/265-1816. COST: EUR2.10. Apr.-Oct., daily 8:15-5:30; Nov.-Mar., daily 8:15-4:30. Closed 1st and last Mon. of each month.
Museo dell'opera del Duomo. In addition to the originals of Ghiberti's Baptistery door panels, the Cathedral Museum contains some superb sculptures by Donatello and Luca della Robbia (1400-82) - especially their cantorie , or singers' galleries - and an unfinished Pietà by Michelangelo that was intended for his own tomb. Piazza del Duomo 9, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/230-2885. COST: EUR5.20. Mon.-Sat. 9:30-6:30, Sun. 8-2.
Museo Nazionale del Bargello. This grim, fortresslike palace served in medieval times as a residence of Florence's chief magistrate and later as a prison. It is now a treasure trove of Italian Renaissance sculpture. In this historic setting you can see masterpieces by Donatello, Andrea del Verrocchio, Michelangelo, and other major sculptors amid an eclectic array of arms and ceramics. For Renaissance enthusiasts this museum is on a par with the Uffizi. Via del Proconsolo 4, centro storico, Florence, PHONE: 055/238-8606. COST: EUR4.10. Daily 8:30-1:50. Closed 2nd and 4th Mon. of month.
Oltrarno. Take a walk over the Ponte Vecchio to the Oltrarno - literally "the other side of the Arno" - for a flavor of everyday Florentine life. You can't miss the Medici's hulking Palazzo Pitti on Via Guicciardini; behind it, the palace's Giardini Boboli provides for a pleasant rest and cupola viewing.
While taking in the colorful and lively local atmosphere, don't miss the Brunelleschi-designed church of Santo Spirito (Piazza Santo Spirito, PHONE: 055/210030) and Masaccio's frescoes in the church of Santa Maria del Carmine (Piazza del Carmine, PHONE: 055/238-2195).
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. Few tourists know about Benozzo Gozzoli's (1420-97) glorious frescoes in the tiny second-floor chapel of this palace, built in 1444 for Cosimo il Vecchio. Glimmering with gold, they represent the journey of the Magi as a spectacular cavalcade with cameo portraits of various Medici and the artist himself. Via Cavour 1, San Lorenzo, Florence, PHONE: 055/276-0340. COST: EUR4.10. Thurs.-Tues. 9-7.
Palazzo Pitti. This enormous palace is one of Florence's largest - if not one of its best - architectural set pieces. The original palazzo, built for the Pitti family around 1460, comprised only the main entrance and the three windows on either side. In 1549 the property was sold to the Medici, and Bartolomeo Ammannati was called in to make substantial additions. Solid and severe, the building houses several museums: the Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum) displays the fabulous Medici collection of objects in silver and gold; the Galleria d'Arte Moderna (Gallery of Modern Art) is of interest more for its rooms than its paintings.
The most famous museum is the Galleria Palatina (Palatine Gallery), which has an extraordinary collection of paintings, many hung frame-to-frame in a clear case of artistic overkill. Some are high up in dark corners, so try to go on a bright day. Piazza Pitti, Oltrarno, Florence, PHONE: 055/210323. COST: Museo degli Argenti EUR2.10; Galleria d'Arte Moderna EUR4.10; Galleria Palatina EUR6.20. Museo degli Argenti Mon.-Sun. 8:30-1:50. Galleria d'Arte Moderna Mon.-Sun. 8:30-1:50. (Both closed 2nd and 4th Sun. and 1st, 3rd, and 5th Mon. of month.) Galleria Palatina Nov.-Mar., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-6:50, Sun. 8:30-8; Apr.-Oct., Tues.-Sat. 8:30-10, Sun. 8:30-7.
Piazza della Signoria. This is the heart of Florence and the city's largest square. The square, the Fontana di Nettuno (Neptune Fountain) by Bartolommeo Ammannati (1511-92), and the surrounding cafés are popular gathering places for Florentines and for tourists who come to admire the Palazzo della Signoria (a.k.a. Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, PHONE: 055/276-8465), the copy of Michelangelo's David standing in front of it, and the sculptures in the 14th-century Loggia dei Lanzi. Centro storico, Florence.
Piazzale Michelangelo. This lookout offers a marvelous view of Florence and the surrounding hills. There's a replica of Michelangelo's David here, and outdoor cafes are packed with tourists during the day and with Florentines in the evening. In May, the Giardino dell'Iris (Iris Garden) off the piazza is abloom with more than 2,500 varieties of the flower. The Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden) on the terraces below the piazza is also in full bloom in May and June.
Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). Florence's oldest bridge appears to be just another street lined with goldsmiths' shops until you get to the middle and catch a glimpse of the Arno below. Spared during World War II by the retreating Germans (who blew up every other bridge in the city), it also survived the 1966 flood. It leads into the Oltrarno, where the atmosphere of old-time Florence is preserved amid fascinating crafts workshops. Arno River, between Ponte Santa Trinita and Ponte alle Grazie, centro storico.
San Lorenzo. The facade of this church was never finished, but the Brunelleschi interior is elegantly austere. Stand in the middle of the nave at the entrance, on the line that stretches to the high altar, and you'll see what Brunelleschi achieved with the grid of inlaid marble in the pavement. Every architectural element in the church is placed to create a dramatic effect of single-point perspective. The Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy), decorated with stuccoes by Donatello, is attributed to Brunelleschi.
Michelangelo's Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana (Laurentian Library), and its famously idiosyncratic vestibolo (anteroom), is to the left of San Lorenzo. Piazza San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo, Florence, PHONE: 055/216634. Mon.-Sat. 7-12 and 3:30-5:30, Sun. 3:30-5; Sagrestia Vecchia: Feb.-Nov., Mon.-Sat. 8-12 and 3:30-5:30, Sun. 3:30-5:30.
San Miniato al Monte. One of Florence's oldest churches, this charming green-and-white marble
Romanesque edifice is full of artistic riches, among them the gorgeous Renaissance chapel where a Portuguese cardinal was laid to rest in 1459 under a ceiling by Luca della Robbia. Viale Michelangelo, or take stairs from Piazzale Michelangelo, Oltrarno, Florence, PHONE: 055/234-2731. Mon.-Sat. 8-12:30 and 2-6, Sun. 8-6.
Santa Croce. The mighty church of Santa Croce was begun in 1294 and has become a kind of pantheon for Florentine greats; monumental tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo Galilei (1564-1642), Niccolò Machiavelli (1469-1527), and other Renaissance luminaries line the walls. Inside are two chapels frescoed by Giotto and another painted by Taddeo Gaddi (1300-66), as well as an Annunciation and crucifix by Donatello. But it is the scale of this grandiose church that proclaims the power and ambition of medieval Florence. Piazza Santa Croce 16, Santa Croce, Florence, PHONE: 055/244619. Mon.-Sat. 9:30-12:15 and 3-5:30, Sun. 3-5:30.
Santa Maria Novella. A Tuscan interpretation of the Gothic style, this handsome church should be seen from the opposite end of Piazza Santa Maria Novella for the best view of its facade. Inside are some famous paintings, especially Masaccio's (1401-28) Trinity , a Giotto crucifix in the sacristy, and Ghirlandaio's frescoes in the Cappella Maggiore (Main Chapel). Piazza Santa Maria Novella, west of Piazza del Duomo, Santa Maria Novella, Florence, PHONE: 055/210113. Mon.-Sat. 7-noon and 3-6, Sun. 3-5.
